Ask the expert
Jered Lawson
Can pies change the way people eat? Jered Lawson—co-director of Pie Ranch, a farm in San Mateo, California dedicated to teaching urban dwellers about sustainable agriculture and healthy food—thinks so. Education programs allow students to help grow and harvest the eggs, fruits and grains used to make the pies at San Francisco's youth-staffed Mission Pie, where freshly baked goodies show city dwellers just how delicious local, sustainable desserts can be.—Patrick Reilly
How did Pie Ranch come about?
Pie Ranch began with the intention of giving city dwellers, especially kids, a place nearby to get their hands in the soil, and learn more about where food comes from. We wanted a place that would inspire people to change the world through food. We work primarily with high school students who come spend the day with us each month throughout the seasons, planting, weeding, harvesting and preparing meals—not to mention, dessert—from scratch. We tie in, with the help of their school teachers, core subject areas such as reading, writing, math and science.
What does green mean to you?
That it's important to keep asking about the origin of what we consume. What went into what we buy? Could I do without it? And if not, was harm caused to the land or people in its production?
How did you decide to concentrate on pie?
We lucked out by having a pie-shaped wedge of land, which gave us the perfect lure to engage people in thinking about their food choices and how what they eat dictates not just their personal health, but major land-use decisions. Every piece of food that you put into your mouth is still linked to soil and people somewhere. I personally like to know that the land and people that brought about the food I nourish myself with were treated with kindness. I also like the idea of that food being grown as close to home as possible. And I think a lot more people are also seeking such mindful pleasures of the palette.
What do the children take away with them after visiting the farm? Do they want to come back? Do they like farming more than pie?
They take away an enjoyment of learning and working together outside in a "living" classroom; they take away an appreciation of fresh, tasty whole foods; and we hear many students describe a feeling of improved observation and writing skills, new capacities in the kitchen; and most important, a sense of peace from being in a beautiful spot for the day. So yes, they want to come back each month. Maybe it has something to do with the warm pies.
Have you always been a farmer, and have you always been green?
I was born and raised in the thick smog of LA. When I got up into the hills and canyons on the outskirts of the basin, I knew life could be better lived. It wasn't until I was in college, visiting a friend who was apprenticing on a farm and planting pumpkin seeds, that the seed was planted in me that you could combine productivity with such beauty and joy found in nature.
What has been the most memorable challenge you've faced and overcome at Pie Ranch?
One of the more fulfilling challenges we've overcome at Pie Ranch is reducing our need to truck in fertilizer from afar. The majority of the soil's vitality comes from hundreds of hens eating grass and pooping. We move a egg-laying group of feathered friends around on pasture for three years before we turn that spot into an area where we grow other pie ingredients such as berries, wheat, or pumpkins.
Are there ways of being green that you don't think are getting enough attention?
I think the first two of the three "R’s" aren't getting enough attention: reduce and reuse. There is probably an ad next to this interview telling you to buy something new.
How can people find out how and where to support local, sustainable farms?
When you buy food, seek out the freshest, tastiest, most mouth-watering raw ingredients from farmers who sell at farmers' markets or, better, through a Community Supported Agriculture program. Then prepare more meals from scratch. A few great national web resources are Local Harvest; Food Routes and Eat Well Guide.
Any tips on how to find and pick out the best and freshest vegetables? What should people be on the lookout for this spring and summer?
Anything that a farmer is growing in good soil with good water and harvested at the peak of ripeness should be full of flavor. Best bet is to be on the lookout for such farmers and they can surely offer you an array of options of the best of what's in season. I love the first steamed kale from the garden, oh, and summer, don't get me started.
Do you have any tips for people who might be thinking about starting to grow fruits and vegetables in their own backyards? What are some good plants to start with?
There's nothing like harvesting your own tomatoes. Though beware, you'll never go back to the cardboard lumps on the shelf at market. And don't forget to plant some kind of summer squash, too, such as zucchini. You'll have something to share with your neighbors.
What is your eco-sin?
Burning too much fuel. Living so far from town and being so tied to town, means we are part of the problem of global climactic destablization.
What's your favorite pie flavor? Do you make pies yourself?
My favorite pie is mixed berry pie (blackberry, raspberry, strawberry) with our Californian heirloom whole-wheat crust. Yes, I enjoy baking pies. There's nothing better than pulling a pie out of the oven with heavenly scents wafting through the kitchen and the pleasure sharing what you made with people you love.